Let’s be honest, we all like to scroll. Shortcuts w/ Command F:
train ; hotel ; streets ; fortress ; cathedral ; Sound of Music ; Mozart ; food
Salzburg was a mere 1.5 days as my parents and I traversed from Germany to Austria. Maybe it’s enough if you want to hit some top sites…but it's just not enough if you really want to savor the slow-paced charm of this iconic Austrian city.
It’s one of those destinations where you sit and breathe at a certain rhythm which calms the heart and allows the mind to wander. It kindled back a similar feeling that I had when I solo traveled to Porto, Portugal: Both are smaller cities with plenty of backroads to get lost in, but with a certain quaint feel that a big city just can’t quite harness.
Traveling by train from Munich to Salzburg should have been easy...But I've explained that debacle in my Munich article. For those planning on taking the cross-country rail, I’m sure it will be smooth sailing for you!
HOTEL
Once we arrived, we walked to our hotel so that we could get a feel of the town. It was a rather long trek, so be prepared if you decide to take it on foot from Salzburg Hauptbahnhof (Salzburg Main Station) to the Altstadthotel Weisse Taube. Salzburg is divided into the new city and the old city by the Salzach River. This welcoming little hotel was located on the old town side. I’m glad it was, for everything, such as all the historical places and traditional vendors, was a stone's throw away.
My family and I aren’t ones to do the bigger-named hotel chains. We like to dip further into the culture and find boutique hotels that are independently owned. This particular hotel was a great choice for us–not just for the location, but for its Austrian flare. The concierge warmly welcomed us while wearing the traditional dirndl, and the breakfast area was adorned with gingham table cloths, bright art, and jars of jams waiting in the morning. (You do have to pay an extra fee for breakfast. I usually try to avoid this, but with the smaller hotels in Europe, you come across it more often.)
salzburg cathedral and fortress Hohensalzburg
The Dom zu Salzburg, the Salzburg Cathedral, is €5 euros to get in, so if youʻre not a church person, it's not the end of the world to skip. But it was very beautiful and a great side adventure during a leisurely day in town.
We spent the rest of the afternoon taking a lift up to the impressive and historic Festung Hohensalzburg, the Fortress Hohensalzburg, which is the mighty medieval structure that stands stoically above the city, an integral part of the Salzburg landscape. This is something you should save at least 2 hours for–to get up to, to buy tickets, and to wander around without feeling rushed. We spent about 1.5 hours up there and got a Prosecco at the top before coming down, enjoying one of the most beautiful views I've ever seen in Europe.
And Iʻm not exaggerating. I keep describing that view as a watercolor painting. It’s unreal.
As for the fortress itself, the main pull for me was the fact that it was a real, medieval site, one that was built out over the ages by the archbishops who held the power in their day. You can climb to the top to see the most extraordinary birdʻs eye of the city. The objects inside the fortress are interesting for those who are history buffs, but it isn't brimming with artifacts like a big city museum might be. (But this was definitely a must for Salzburg, donʻt get me wrong!)
FOOD
One of the reasons I wish I had more time in Salzburg was to browse the street vendors. Not just for the art and trinkets (for I did buy a watercolor of the Salzach from a kind, talented street artist), but for the food. We got our big, salty, pretzel one afternoon, but I regret missing the traditional Käsekrainer. This is a pork Brühwurst stuffed with chunks of cheese. (If you miss it in Salzburg, try it in Vienna.)
Apparently, their famed dessert is a Nockerl: three light and fluffy dumplings that represent the mountains surrounding Salzburg. They sometimes are paired with jam and always coated with powdered sugar.
As for bigger meals, we had a grand total of two dinners, so we had to make the most of them.
First was Zwettler's Wirtshaus, a restaurant right next to our Weiss Taube hotel. It was a homey feel, truly Austrian, with well-made cuisine. My Austrian meatballs were perhaps one of my favorite meals during our entire Germany/Austria trip.
Second was Zum Zirkelwirt, which also had a great classic, European, cozy atmosphere. I must admit, I didn’t have traditional Austrian food here. But, my pulled-pork sandwich was honestly worthwhile!
We actually had a beautiful view when we stopped for a drink and apple strudel at the Museum der Moderne Salzburg. If I go back, I'll definitely visit this museum. (I'm a modern art lover, but my parents aren't so much.) The elegant cafe at the top of a hill was a sweet hidden find!
SOUND OF MUSIC TOUR
If you are going to Salzburg, I assume thereʻs a high chance you are interested in taking the Sound of Music tour.
I won’t lie, as a big fan, I was pretty excited. My mother and I had been looking forward to this moment...
Fun fact, the Sound of Music craze actually started in America. It wasnʻt until a little while later that Austrians started watching it.
A Sound of Music tour will get you to some of the sites where the movie was filmed. It also gives you a peek at where the actual family lived. I would like to note a few things that will help you choose what tour to take and what to expect:
We chose Bob's Special Tours, and we got a very nice, knowledgeable, funny man named Bruno who took us in his van through the countryside with a small group of 7 people. The best part was that we got to squeeze our way through winding roads and see things that a big bus tour just canʻt. (When I did have a chance to look over at a big bus Sound of Music tour, I felt good about our choice–there were just so many people packed in…Ours was something much more personalized.) We got to know Bruno and learn about the film, the actual story, and about Austria in general. He had a wealth of knowledge, and it seemed that he truly cherished his job, meeting folks from around the world, joking with them, and sharing a love of a classic movie.
Donʻt get disappointed: A lot of places are off limits to tour groups for privacy reasons. These include the actual Von Trapp original residence and access to the grounds of the two palaces where they filmed the movie-version Von Trapp residence. But, you will see both of the palaces used--just from afar!
You may have imagined that just a stroll away from the terrace of the Von Trapp Villa would be the most anticipated site: the gazebo. Sorry to spoil it…but the gazebo got moved from that original location. However, now that it’s in a new location, Hellbrunn Palace, you can actually go right up to it. It's just something to admire, nothing crazy, but fun to idle around while humming "Sixteen Going on Seventeen" under your breath.
My personal highlight was walking down the aisle of the church where the film’s Maria and Captain Von Trapp were married. I got to pretend I was Julie Andrews in a long wedding gown making my way along the pews…And since this church was located in a small side town, we had some built-in time to shop around and explore. I was able to buy myself a scarf as a little Austrian souvenir, and other folks in our group stopped at a local restaurant for a pastry and coffee.
While driving down the Salzburg roads into the other gorgeous towns, Bruno pointed out even more sites that the movie featured. (Oh, and donʻt worry, the small tours also play the soundtrack, as you make your way across Salzburg. If you're like me, youʻll sing along like an idiot.)
But it’s not over!
Bruno dropped us off near the Mirabell Gardens, which we requested. (So, note that your tour might not take you there.) These gardens showcase the Sound of Music filming spots for the Do-Re-Mi number. You'll see the tunnel that they rode bikes through, the steps they jumped on, and the gnome they bopped on the head as the crooning crew made a montage of their day learning how to sing.
There are full day tours available for the Sound of Music excursion, but the half-day tour worked great for us. To fill out the rest of our day, we spent ample time in Mirabell Gardens and even fit in the Mozart birthplace and residence.
MOZART's BIRTHPLACE AND RESIDENCE
To note: Itʻs not just one place you can visit.
The residence: Where Mozart and his family lived for a period of time
The birthplace: The smaller home where Mozart was born
The monument: A small statue honoring Mozart
The residence and birthplace had some artifacts to browse (old letters, some original scores, actual instruments) with available audio guides. If you are not a huge classical music fan, perhaps this is one to skip. But it is a good activity for the museum-goer and music lover. How incredible to stand where Mozart once stood, no matter your interests!
Overall, Salzburg was magical. The many shops, the winding cobbled streets, and the warm people made it so special. I would love to return and take it slow the second time around.
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