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train ; transportation ; streets ; church ; market ; castle ; palace ; BMW ; May Day ; Austria
A trip with my parents to Germany and Austria had been years in the making–a conversation since before COVID-19 hit, when we had to put our plans on hold. I think the main reason my mom in particular was hoping to get to Germany was because of her bloodline.
It was time to visit our ancestors.
Now, I’m not quite sure what city my German ancestors come from…I know it’s not Munich, but, alas, this is the city we chose to visit. We booked an overnight, nonstop flight on United Airlines and landed on a beautiful morning on a quiet Thursday.
Public Transportation
I find that the most difficult part about starting your journey is simply getting from the airport to your hotel. It’s the first time you may encounter a new language, a new public transportation system, and a new way of interacting with new people.
(Plus, I’m usually tired, in my airport outfit–the comfiest sweatsuit in my closet–and a bit scattered after being herded to baggage claim.)
The train was a nice way to get from Munich Airport to the Old Town area. Just follow the green “S” signs! First hurdle of mine and my family’s? Making sure to press the “English” button on the ticket machine.
The map on the train platform was also a bit overwhelming to look at. My suggestion is to research the stop closest to your hotel, then find it on the map. What colors run through that stop? Match the colors with the correct train line. Done! Get on the train and enjoy.
When booking an S-Bahn or U-Bahn train line ticket, it will ask you which “zone” you are buying for. It took us a minute to figure this one out, but we realized that the little map beside the ticketing booth was colored in abstract rings across the background. The color of these rings matched each zone. Here’s a handy map!
I am used to Chicago CTA, so European trains always surprise me with smooth, spacious transport. It was safe, effective, and a pleasant ride.
Other than training…what to watch out for? The cars and bikes! Pedestrians don’t have the right of way. So when you zigzag the streets on foot, check both ways. It’s absolutely a bike-friendly and bike-heavy city–and they come zooming down.
Speaking of the streets, unlike an NYC-style grid, it’s very windy and can be confusing as you wander along. Make sure to pay attention to site markers and pull out your Google Maps to ensure you’re going the right direction. The Munich area is bigger than I expected, so we took many wrong turns the first day. (Not that it was really a bad thing, though. Losing your way is part of the fun, isn’t it?)
Hotel
We checked in at the Hotel Concorde. It’s a 10-minute walk to Marienplatz, the main Old Town square. Colorful decor, small rooms, and the staff was lovely. They helped my dad when he was in a bind, missing an adapter for his ever-important CPAP machine. And they recommended the best form of transportation for each activity that we wanted to partake in.
This is your reminder to ALWAYS ask a concierge–they will most likely have your answer (and a few extra adapters in the lost and found!).
Right near our hotel was a Havana Club Cuban bar, which became our night-cap spot. If you are the type who gets bored of beer or who simply wants to keep the good times rolling, it was a good find. Plus, it’s farther away from the main square of Munich’s Old Town, making it a reprieve from all the hustle and bustle.
Getting to Know the Streets of Munich
To avoid jet lag getting the best of us, we hit the streets right away to stay awake and acquaint ourselves with the main Munich area. Of course, we marveled at the Glockenspiel and the churches. Right behind St. Peter’s Church is Viktualienmarkt, where you can stop for a drink, a bratwurst, or some gelato. There was a little chocolate shop called Chocolaterie Beluga, which had an excellent, bitter and rich, dark chocolate sorbet. Yum…
A quick tip!!! The Glockenspiel does an amazing dance for you when it chimes…BUT only at the hours of 11 am and 12 pm. During March through October, it will also play at 5 pm.
Two things that struck me about Munich. First is the jarring mix of old and new–the classic architecture with the modern buildings built after WWII bombings. It was also a clash of your classic German restaurants with the international shopping stops like H&M and Ecco.
Mainly, we stuck to spending our time in the German restaurants, sipping beer and Aperol Spritzes, eating pretzels, and ordering wiener schnitzel. But it is a city full of shopping, with plenty of places to browse.
Castles and Palaces
Coming into our Germany and Austria trip, we already knew that it would be filled with palaces and castles. Weʻre a site-seeing family, interested in history, so that was not a problem for us. For anyone else, just be aware that many of the main attractions will be admiring old architecture, art, and design.
The Residenz Palace and Nymphenburg Palace are easily accessible via foot or train if you are staying in Munich. The Linderhof Palace and Neuschwanstein Castle are day trips worth planning for.
If you’re looking for a roundup of prices, tips, and history of the castles and palaces I just mentioned, then check out the article I wrote for europeantraveler.net.
BMW Museum
To appease my engineer father, we took the train down to the BMW Museum. A good stop for the car and motorcycle lovers in your life, it was a nicely laid out museum with plenty of old and new BMWs to gawk at. My mom and I zipped through just admiring the high walls of endless vehicles, while my dad opted to take his time, reading the plaques about the design and history…which I didn't fully understand but I could imagine others might! This is definitely a stop that is solely based on level of interest. A room full of engines lights people up in a way that art and theater lights me up.
When to Travel to Munich
We totally forgot that May 1st, May Day, was a huge holiday in Germany. The thing that you must remember is that holidays in another country are both very exciting to witness…and sometimes logistically frustrating. Yes, we got to see Marienplatz setting up stalls and a stage for that nightʻs festivities, as well as decorated May polls in the countryside when we drove into the outskirts of Munich. But, most shops are closed. So, if you want to do that last minute shopping or need to stop for some medicine or supplies, you are out of luck. Donʻt try on May Day. The only places open are restaurants and outdoor markets…and people are having a party!!! Enjoy, but plan ahead of time and do your local research to ensure you are prepared for whatʻs in store on that holiday.
Other than that, May was a lovely time to visit the area. It did get a bit chilly at times, but it was a great choice in terms of avoiding the tourist rush that happens in the summertime.
If you want a totally different German experience, then book winter. I haven’t done it myself, but I’ve heard the Christkindl markets are a magical time. For this kind of trip, I would plan at least 4-6 months in advance–hotels are most likely booking up for this highly sought-after holiday.
Going from Munich to Austria
If you are taking the OBB from Munich to Salzburg, Austria, like we did, take note:
Our ticket was in German. Before you depart your hotel, ask the concierge for some help before lugging your suitcases to the station.
Make sure you know if you are leaving from the Central Station or Munich East. We made the mistake of going to the Central Station.
The Munich East station is just a few train stops away. Although a quick ride, and we made it in time, it’s a lesson to BUDGET IN TIME for these kinds of mistakes.
At the Munich East station, the platform our ticket indicated was empty. We had a feeling that something was wrong… No one was on the platform, the screens that usually showed the upcoming train schedule were blank, and no trains were passing. Use your best judgment. Look at the other screens in the station. Look for your destination, your train number. There was no readily available agent to help us at the Munich East station, so it was just our luck that we figured it out in time.
We did get to Salzburg, which was a gorgeous spot. But now, I'm itching to get to other parts of Germany. Any suggestions?
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